Kailash Manasarover Yatra 2018 - A life time experience

At the outset, I start with pranams to Jagadguru Sankaracharya His Holiness Sri Sri Sri Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamigal, the ruling and 36th Pontiff and His successor designate Jagadguru Sankaracharya His holiness Sri Sri Sri Vidhu Shekhara Bharathi swamigal the 37th Pontiff of Sri Sringeri Saradha Peetham for everyone’s welfare & continued prosperity.

Our Salutations to the Holy mountains and Mother of all Rivers Manasarover

It’s one of the ironies of mountaineering,” said Young, “that grown men are happy to spend months preparing for a climb, weeks rehearsing and honing their skills, and at least a day attempting to reach the summit. And then having achieved their goal, they spend just a few moments enjoying the experience, along with one or two equally certifiable companions who have little in common other than wanting to do it all again, but a little higher.” 

― Jeffrey Archer, Paths of Glory

The lingering thoughts in each one of our minds was “will we make the climb to ‘drolma pass’ @ 18600 feet ? Will she permit us to offer our obeisance or throw us to oblivion and mock at us? We started with prayers on our way to Kailash Manasarover.

Day1 : 20^th May’2018: Bangalore to Lucknow to Nepalgunj

We started our momentous journey for mount Kailash. We quickly hopped to Lucknow by flight and from there took a TT to reach our hotel in Nepalgunj ( in Nepal and after crossing the Nepal border). Prepare yourself for a multitude of border checks and we had 4 check points both from the Indian and Nepal side including tariff payment for the vehicle. We stayed in Hotel Batika OM which was around 3KM from the India-Nepal border. Our travel operator ‘Kailash Journeys’ met us here and gave an overview on the route to be covered.

The Team - We were called the Bengaluru team!!
L-R: Ravi,Ajit, Sundar, Pradeep, Roona, Nagendra, Ram, Sudha, Babitha

Day 2 & 3 : 21^st/22^nd May’2018 : Nepalgunj to Simikot ( 2910 Mts – 9550 feet)

We were transported to Nepalgunj airport and after the security checks, we flew in a Dornier twin engine Aircraft ( 15 seater) and a 1^st time experience for all of us. The flying time from NepalGunj to Simikot was 35 mins.

A thing of beauty is joy forever – Oscar Wilde 

Picturesque Simikot Valley

Simikot - Switzerland of Nepal

Simikot is a picturesque valley located in North western Nepal with snow capped peaks. Simikot vally reminded us of Switzerland. The valley is surrounded by snow peaks in a circular fashion and could be termed as the ‘Switzerland of Nepal’. Tourism related facilities are in a nascent stage and there are not much activities around. Our Hotel Patola Resort was situated right behind the small Airstrip. We could always get the view of the Dornier aircrafts/ Helicopters landing and taking off. It was a visual treat to witness these machines alongside the silver lining of the mountains. To get used to the terrain, we did a walk for 2 hours and explored the local Shiva temple and a primary school in the morning.

Around mid-evening, we explored the nearby meadows and the cliff alongside by walk. From the cliff of the mountain, we had a bird’s eye view of the river and mountain peaks - breath taking and astonishing. Continuing our ancestors quest to explore unknown lands and mystic places, we were fortunate enough to be blessed with this Nature’s calling

We were waiting for our Helicopter ride to Hilsa and due to bad weather, the Helicopter did not fly from Simikot to Hilsa on 22nd May

Day 4 – Simikot to Hilsa (3640 Meters – 12000 feet)

To live in the world without becoming aware of the meaning of the world is like wandering about in a great library without touching the books 

– Dan Brown in Lost Symbol

On top of a Ridge -Team doing theTrek in Hilsa Mountain ranges

In Hilsa the China and Nepal border forms part of the 2 banks of the Karnali river. The helipad for landing is on the Nepal side of the river bank and the Chinese customs port is on the other bank. A motorable bridge connects the 2 regions. Hilsa is a border village very close to China border in Humla district of Nepal. We can actually see the China border ,  a few meters away. 

And finally, the Heli hop to Hilsa materialized and we flew to Hilsa from Simikot in the morning. The ride was quick with a travel time of 20 mins or so with the bird taking us in the passages of the majestic mountains. Once, we reached Hilsa, and @ 12000 feet, we could feel our breathing becoming heavier. We took deep breathes and in about 2 hours we got acclimatized ( note: We were drinking 3 Liters of water on an average to keep ourselves well hyderated)

The Helicopter ride was an thrilling & scary  flying over the mountains in the valley. Some times we felt the blades were going to hit the mountain edges. Overall a very memorable experience. Our stay was in very basic dormitory kind of rooms.

Success is not defined by luck; it happens when preparation meets opportunity

Hilsa Trek - We surmounted the landslides on the way

In preparation for the 3 day circumbulation , we were slowly and steadily preparing ourselves. Our preparation has been ongoing over the last 4 months in BLR and we continued our momentum both in Simikot and Hilsa.  We did a  trek for 2.5 hrs in Hilsa. It was bit challenging and inbetween road was covered with landslide. And we did it. A great experience and good trial run for Kora. 

This trek also exposed us on the challenges that lay ahead, as we were not used for trekking in high altitudes, the breathing was significantly heavy thereby sowing the seeds of angst ! 

Were doubting Thomases @ play ? only time will provide an answer!

Day 5: Hilsa to Taklakot (4025 Meters/ 13205 feet)

Two options: Either Stay blessed in our comfort zone or challenge the status quo - We chose the later . All of us are faced with a multitude of choices and options and the path we choose determines the outcome and success

In Karnali River
The secret of genius is to carry the spirit of the
child into old age - A. Huxely

After eagerly waiting for our next ‘port of call’ we received information that the border crossing towards Tibeten side will happen in afternoon around 3:00 PM post lunch. After finishing the China customs clearance, we moved to Taklakot. There were baggage checking and thermal checking in Taklakot for all the pilgrims and moved on to a comfortable hotel for stay. In the evening we purchased some essentials like Oxygen cylinders, fruits and prepared for the next leg. It was a day of complete rest and we all had a nice bath and sumptuous dinner in Taklakot hotel. The night time temperature was between -2 to -4 deg C

Day 6: Taklakot to Manasarover (4,550 m / 15,015 ft)

Time is like a River. The same water is never touched twice as the same flow ceases to pass twice

View of the mountains from Rakshastal

Our team @ Rakshastal

After breakfast, we continued our journey to the holy lake of Manasarover. A large fresh water lake @ an amazingly high elevation with temperatures hovering around the 0 deg Celsius mark. From Taklakot we left for Manasarover which is 95 km away. On the way , we stopped @Rakshastal, We had our 1^st glimpse of mount Kailash from Rakasthal and submitted ourselves to mount Kailash. It was amazingly beautiful and the vastness of whole landscape pales us into insignificance

Holy Manasarover lake

On the way to the holy lake, I chanted Lagunyasa poorvaka Rudram 11 times followed by Chamakkam and sought the blessings of divine almighty for all of us.

Pooja @ Lake Manasarover to Spatika Linga with Vedic chanting

We moved onto Lake Manasarover ( whose circumference is 92 KMs or so), took a holy dip in the lake and performed Pooja to the Spatika lingam, which I had taken from BLR. Around 25 of us performed Abhisheka ( from Manasarover theetha) with the chanting of vedic mantras. Many from the team joined the Pooja and the ladies performed Aarthi using ghee lamps. The Pooja was done for 2.5 hours and for all of us, this was a crowning glory moment and we were ecstatic spiritually and many of us felt oneness with the divine and super natural powers. The night stay was in the mud house in Manasarover situated on the banks of the Lake.

Interesting text on Kailash Mountain and Manasarover

Day 7: Manasarover à Darchen (4560 meters/15,050 ft) and Day 1 Kora ( Circumbulation of the holy mountain)

Dirapuk (day 1 camp) – 4890 meters/16140 ft)

In Manasarover, We woke up @ 2:30 AM to witness the cosmic movements of the clear sky, siting on the banks of lake Manasarover. Many of us saw 2 bright objects (stars?) moving from one direction to another in a zig zag fashion. This was definitely not an illusion as our head and body turned from 1 direction to another and the objects disappeared. (Hope, they were not satellites as I have not read or seen yet movement of staellites in Zig/Zag fashion)

Day 1 Kora: View of Mount Kailash from Yamadwar

 After breakfast, we moved to Yamadwar, wherein we started the day1 parikrama. Multiple options are available here to help pilgrims namely: 

a)      Pony service

b)      Porter service

The options cant be combined/transferred. Members from our group opted for Pony and Porter services depending on need. 

Day 1 Kora: The long winding pathway

From Yamadwar the distance is 14 KM’s. Eventhough the pathway is mud track interspersed with few elevations, the walk in itself is very challenging. The temeperature was around -2 deg C and the chilly winds were howling around the ears changing directions every now and then. The trek took about 5-6 hours for the group and we all reached the Day 1 basecamp @ Dirapak at 6:45 PM local time. Essential supplies were carried by Yaks.

We could observe the night time temperature falling down and members from the extended team of our tour group complained of breathlessness, restlessness and other issues related to altitude sickness. 5 members were immediately evacuated to the camp @ Darchen by the tour operator. Inclusive of pilgrims from other operators there were 90+ people staying in the camp in Derapuk at the end of day 1 parikrama. Temperature reached around -5 to -6 deg in the night and honestly it tested our resolve and nerves.

Day 1 Kora: Mount Kailash from the foot steps of Yamadwar

The tour operator too played his part with mind games by announcing that the Day 2 Parikrama is called-off due to various reasons namely : Health, weather, fitness, rough terrain, snow, slippery muddy surface, Ponies will not walk in snow, challenges in shipment of essentials, 90% of parikrama is covered as of day 1, other tour operator has decided not to do day 2 Kora, etc etc. The hydra headed monster inside us fed by fear and fueled by suspicions on our own ability, reared its ugly head once again and many of us succumbed ! Day 1 attrition was very high – almost 80 people who were in the camp declined to join day 2

Did we fall to the forces who decided to ‘ring the curtain’ down on us? To be honest, I closed my eyes with a heavy heart fearing that, its all over!

Day 8 – Day 2 Parikrama – Drolma pass (5670 meters/ 18600 feet ) and basecamp in Zutulpuk

The only barrier to success are the ones we create ourselves – Travis Russel

I woke up @ 5:30 AM in the morning and the 1^st thought that came to my mind were the above words, from the author of the book on SS7 signaling, which I have read in my engineering days

Day 2 Kora: View of Kailash from Derapuk base camp

Day 2 Kora: View of Kailash from Dirapuk base camp

Determined to force the issue, At 6:00 AM, I went to the tour operator room and after listening to his (same) sermons for 15 mins, countered him with only one question “what time are we starting ? I need to inform the team and make the necessary arrangements” and walked out of the room to inform the rest of the team to get ready. The next 1 hr there were a buzz of activity and 7 of us decided to take the final plunge and were ready. We started @ 8:30 AM from the Dirapuk camp.

Day 2 Kora: Top of Dormla Pass

The distance to be traversed on Day 2 is 22 Kms. On Day 2 of Kora the weather is generally unpredictable in Dolrma Pass , and we started with prayers in our lips. The 1st 6 Km  is a steep pass combined with hard rocky terrain uphill and is an arduous challenge, which tests each and every sinew in the human anatomy. Combined with the very cold temperatures , low oxygen levels and icy winds hitting the face, the physical and mental strength is tested to the core. Dormla Pass is also referred to as ‘Sky grave’. As per local traditions, they offer their hair/old clothes/a tooth/animal fur/Yak hair and so on. This symbolizes death and sins of our previous births are removed. 

Day 2 Kora: Parvathi Kund

Then a steep decent starts and we come to ‘Parvathi Kund’ – ( recall Godess Parvathi taking bath, guarded by Lord Ganesh and the purana of Shri Maha Ganapathy). From here when they come to Gauri Kund they attain rebirth with their sins washed away.

Day 2 Kora: Frozen lake/stream on the way we need to cross before the steep decent

Post that a steep descent of 4kms thru a glacier, and the down hill. The descent was equally challenging akin to ascent. After that a 12 km walk on uneven surface among the rocks and river bed to reach our 2nd day resting place – Zutulpuk. 

Day 2 Kora: The mountains were unforgiving!
The journey (12 KMs) ahead after the steep descent from Parvathi Kund

The place is a cold desert without vegetation and the mountains are unforgiving. After 9-10 hrs of this arduous journey we reached the basecamp in Zutulpuk.

We were overwhelmed with joy and humbled with divine support in making this happen.

Day 9 – Zutulpuk to Darchen

It's elementary Dr Watson !!!

Mud toilets on the way!!

Day 3 Parikrama is 8 KM’s and comparatively easy. The pathway was scenic via a cluster of cliffs and with the scenic river giving us company.  The temperature was -2 deg C. When we checked the water bottles on our back pack, the droplets on the cover had turned into ice crystals.  We made the 8KM’s in 2.5 hours and were in Darchen with the rest of the team by 9:30 AM for breakfast. There was a huge roar from the rest of the team and we were hugged and congratulated.

Day 3 Kora: We had the River for company!!

Day 3 Kora: Steep Cliff greeted us all along the way

We were informed by the operator, that we were the 1^st batch of Indians to do the 3 day Kora (circumbulation) in this route for 2018.

We started our journey back to Manasarover à Taklakot à Hilsa and reached Hilsa by 2:30 PM. Night stay was in Hilsa camp which was swelling with pilgrims who were waiting for their China group permits to cross over to taklakot. Our legend has spread like wild fire and we enjoyed the attention and glory

 Day 10 – Hilsa - Simikot - Nepagunj- Lucknow – Bangalore

Strength to achieve does not come from a Physical state; but an indomitable will – M.K.Gandhi

In Hilsa our legend has spread too quickly and we were surrounded by the pilgrims who were waiting to move forward. We enjoyed the attention, sunshine and glory and shared our experience with the other team members. 

Travel back was swift and without hassles. We traversed through 3 time zones and 3 modes of transport ( Helicopter/Plane/Road). We were in BLR by mid-night and reached home safely

L-R: Hitesh, Ravi, Ram, Anoop, Pradeep, Ajit, Sherpa1, Sherpa 2
Sitting: Sherpa 3 , Sundar

Culture:

 A nation's culture resides in the hearts and in the soul of its people – M.K.Gandhi

A Tibetan pilgrim performing parikrama by Namaskar
the entire 44 KMs 

Some of the locals do Kora by prostrating thru the full 44 KMs. This may take upto 4 weeks for completion. They walk 3 steps and do a prostration and again they start with 3 steps and namaskar with constant prayers on their lips. We were moved by their deep faith.

Few pics added here as we enjoyed the good hospitality of Nepalese and Tibetan culture

An elderly lady doing parikrama

Children in the Primary school - Simikot

Enjoying Nepalese hospitality - Our Stay in Hilsa

A Tibetan women carrying weight on the Dormla Pass @ 18200 feet

The trip was a lifetime experience, both Spiritually, Physically and mentally. It was an humbling experience, interspersed and integrated with oneness in the warmth of  Mother Nature. The learning are of a lifetime and brings a different perspective on our current approach to challenges we would face now or later!

The woods are Lovely, Dark and Deep.
But, I have promises to keep and miles to go before I sleep !! - Robert Frost

We bid adieu to the mountains with a promise to return, and requested her to welcome us into her lap once again !!!

Jaihind – Har Har Mahadev

ps: Special thanks to Abhilasha and team for their warm welcome. It was indeed a special gesture to all us on our return and making us feel special in their midst !!!