Kashmir Great Lakes Trek - Aug/Sept 2022

At the outset, I start with pranams to Sringeri Jagadguru  Sannidhanams  His Holiness Jagadguru  Sankaracharya  Sri Sri Sri Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamigal and  Jagadguru Sankaracharya His holiness Sri Sri Sri Vidhu Shekhara Bharathi swamigal  of Sringeri Saradha Peetham for everyone’s welfare & continued prosperity.

We embarked on a fascinating journey to explore Mother Nature with a the Kashmir Great Lakes [KGL] Trek.

Our Salutations to the Holy Mountains and the Resplendent Lakes

Nature's Diadem - View from Nandkul

॥ madhu vātā ṛtāyate madhukṣaranti sindhavaḥ। mādhvīrnaḥ santvauṣadhīḥ॥ madhu naktamutoṣasi madhumatpārthivam̐ rajaḥ। madhudyaurastu na pitā॥ madhumānno vanaspatirmadhumām̐ astu sūryaḥ। mādhvīrgāvo bhavantu naḥ॥ - Rig Veda

Sweetly blow the winds. The streams scatter sweetness. May the herbs bring us sweetness. The nights and dawns fill us with sweetness. The dust of the earth is full of sweetness. May heaven itself, like a father, bring us sweetness. The ancient forest trees are full of sweetness. May the sun itself shower sweetness on us. May sweetness flow toward us from all directions. - Rig Veda

A bee collecting honey! Nature's Sweetness is for One and All!!

Sharing some of our experiences in this blog epistle and I will start our storyline directly from the Trekking days!

Children welcoming us in Kashmir

We all have dreams - It is our duty to enable the dreams of future generations!

Day 1: The Beginning

Nature always wears the color of the Spirit : Ralph Waldo Emerson

On Day 1, post lunch we started our trek from Shitkadi (also sidgadi 2kms from Sonamarg) to the camp in Tabletop. The weather was inclement and it was just a matter of time, before the heavens were to open up!

In continuation of our tryst with the Himalayan mountain ranges, I whispered to Her, the majestic mountains, 'Do give us a clear weather, for we want to be charmed and enchanted by Your splendid opulence and open up your landscapes that are ostentatiously magnificent and extravagant'!  

After passing through the army check post and registering ourselves, we continued our trek. As a blessing in disguise , this was also the last point where mobile signal was available and we were prepared for the next 8 days to be without the mobile dopamine! We were at an altitude of approximately 7500 - 8000 feet

Rapid changes in weather

Rain Rain Go away :-)

Indeed it rained and there was little respite. In the evening, it became very cold, combined with the continuous downpour, we trekked and reached the tabletop camp. Team members resolve was getting tested.....Will it rain further, will we be able to surmount the challenges? 

Day 2: Sunshine

The mountains, the forest, and the sea, render men savage; they develop the fierce, but yet do not destroy the human.” - Victor Hugo

Our daily routine starts by 5:30 AM, a hot Kawha (Kashmiri chai) at 6:00 AM, 6:30 to 7:00 AM breakfast and 7:30 AM leave the camp site. The itinerary of the day was to trek from Table top camp to Nichnai camp which is at an altitude of 11500 feet.

Skyline from Tabletop camp

The day dawned with a bright and beautiful skyline. It is always rumored that " 'Nichnai and Rain Romance were always ready for tango". The ascent was always on the cards and we followed the tree-line and surmounted a small pass, a couple of hours walk and reached Nichnai camp for lunch !! The trek team consisted of teenaged youngsters, members in the 40-50 age group and a senior citizen! It was lovely to have such a mix, with fun and banter with each passing step. The energy displayed by teenagers was infectious and we just wanted to be in their company!

Following the Tree top

Ascent towards the Nichnai pass with the stream giving us company

Our camp site

Once we reached Nichnai campsite, there was heavy downpour and combined with the gain in altitude, few of the natural symptoms of Altitude mountain sickness was taking effect! The guides, seniors and experienced trekkers were motivating others to have plenty of water and do simple breathing exercises and the mantra was 'Stay together for success"

Day 3: Endurance

Patience and Perseverance, if we have them will overcome mountain of difficulties - M K Gandhi

In deference to our wishes the intractable and recalcitrant Nature bride completely opened up her blue skies and thenceforth the weather promised to be picture perfect and not to play spoilsport. We continued our onward journey from Nichnai campsite to Vishnusar. The trek was relatively easy on Day 3 and we were building the needed endurance (or appeared to be !!). 

The trek route until the Nichnai mountain pass located at an altitude of 13450 feet was steep and post that the rich meadows of 'Paradise on Earth' was strewn with rich abundant flora,  definitely a beauty in the eyes of beholder!!

Mountainous stream and Vishnusar lake 

Abundant Rich flora - 'Paradise on Earth'

Team @ Nichnai pass

Our team on the way to Vishnusar

The trek was easily around 5-6 hour and we reached Vishnusar camp site located at an altitude of 12170 feet . The site is maintained by Indian Army and we need to follow the necessary mandatory checks and protocols. After reaching the camp site, we went to Vishnusar lake which is 7-10 mins away. 

The first of the great lakes Vishnusar is an Oligotrophic lake and from different angles the hue and color of lake changes to blue, greenish and is mesmerizing. The lake is captivating and quietly nestled between the mountain spurs. The water is crystal clear and one can immediately see the deepness from the  land and is mostly frozen during winter.

Vishnusar lake

Team on the banks of Vishnusar

We played a number of games inside the mess tent and was served a sumptuous dinner by the accompanying staff. On enquiry the chief guide jokingly remarked ,"The sheep is always well fed, before the D day, and be prepared for the toughest day of the trek tomorrow. Gadsar Pass is coming "....

Definitely, the mountains are beckoning us with a new invite for embrace!. We heard the toughness of the ascent to Gadsar pass . Is it going to be a classic case of 'Spirit is willing but not the flesh' ?  

Day 4: Challenge, Prayers and Blessings

We can achieve everything by being simple and humble - Rig Veda

Today [31st Aug'22] is also Vinayak (Lord Ganesha) Chatruthi. Some of the trek members showed their extraordinary skills by collecting clay sand in and around the Vishnusar lake and made a beautiful clay idol of Lord Ganesha. Women made garlands with the available cotton materials. Dry fruit prasad's were ready , a simple and small pooja was performed with Arathi for lord Ganesh. Vedic chanting was done and post the pooja Lord Ganesha was given a ceremonial send-off and immersed in the stream abutting Vishnusar lake. 

The festive atmosphere was electrifying  in the holy land of Sage Kashyap!

Ganesh Chattuthi Pooja by team

With prayers submitted at the lotus feet of Lord Ganesha we started the trek on day 4. We bid adieu to Vishnusar lake and saw the majestic Kishansar lake. 

Children performing Yoga & Photo-ops from Gadsar Pass  

Ascent to Gadsar pass - it has 2 very steep sections

After spending some photo-ops moment @ Kishansar we continued our onward ascent. The ascent was steep and every sinew in the body was stressed and called for attention. With one aim to be on top of the Gadsar pass located at 13750 feet, I think body also releases extreme amount of endorphins to mask the pain. We all ascended Gadsar pass and tumultuous celebrations broke out .

Ascension to Gadsar pass with team in the foreground

Vishnusar and kishansar lakes from Gadsar pass

Our Indian Flag was respectfully taken out , held high and waved in the Gadsar pass..

Reminiscing Kailash Manasarover @ Gadsar Pass
There is a Child in each one of us

After spending 45 mins or so in in the pass , we started our descent. After an hour we descended in the Gadsar lake bed which is also called as the valley of flowers. 

@ Gadsar lake

Gadsar in Kashmiri means 'Lake of  fishes'. Gadsar is also an Oligotrophic lake and it is said trout fishes can be found here. [ Some call the Gadsar lake as Yamasar - or the lake of death] . We enjoyed the environs of Gadsar lake and then further started our trek.

The Purple Meadows

Post the descent we walked through the long and winding pass in the midst of a purple meadow. Fresh water streams at multiple places on the way quenched our thirst. We reached the Gadsar camp around 5:00 PM in the evening and were warmly welcomed by the Indian army, as this camp site is also maintained by our Armed forces.

We successfully completed the day 4 Gadsar pass trek and there is no turning back. Faith has indeed moved mountains and our prayers were accepted!

Day 5: Reflection  

Wisdom comes from experience and experience comes from difficulties

In mountaineering treks, emphasis is laid on 2 simple and key aspects " Time Keeping and Discipline" and you miss them the mountains will be unforgiving! By now, we were used to the rhythm and rigorous schedule (albeit at a comfortable pace for everyone which was non-taxing) set by our guides, things were turning from hardship to Breeze for the team members

"when you 'enable a deliberate practice it becomes the habit and culture"

Day 5 was filled with banter and laughter. The guides cajoled us and said, with Gadsar pass surmounted, 90% of KGL is done, and one has to just enjoy the trek, the picturesque and pristine environs. 

Satsar Lake III

Lunch On the banks of Satsar lake

We were in Satsar [Sat-Sar] a collection of 7 small alphine lakes. The trek was relatively easy for the day and our evening in the mess tent was spent with a multitude of games like Dobble, Uno, Emperor and Antaksari. The camp site in Satsar was nicely nestled in valley surrounded on all sides by small mountains and looked like we were in a fortress. 

Satsar camp site

Day 6: Trust and Random musings

What is a life time adventure for you, is a daily routine for us - Indian Army 

I want to take a moment in this epistle and reflect on the supreme sacrifices of our armed forces in protecting the motherland. If we are able to see , appreciate many wonders and diversity of our Motherland, it is due to, round the clock vigil by our Indian armed forces. In many places we met soldiers from CRPF, Special Operations Group, BSF and J&K Police force. we greeted them and took photographs with them. 

Our Brave Soldiers in Line of Duty

Wanting to live versus Willingness to sacrifice their own lives in the call of duty for our mother land is a completely different ball game, as the soldier stands in front protecting the borders knowing that there are enemies out there trying to kill you. Lets not forget that they too have a family and children waiting for them to return home safe and sound. We salute our brave soldiers in the line of duty.

Trek on the boulders

A shepherd family

Crossing the Zach Pass

From Zach Pass Nandkul on left & Gangabal on right

The trek to Zach pass @ 13500 feet took about 3 hours or so and was on hard boulders which were 3-5 feet in height, the pace was slow and cautious. We were advised 'Just trust the boulders and keep moving' . Zach pass was cloudy and was threatening to rain, but She left us with just a warning. From Zach pass we can see the Nandkul and Gangabal lakes and the view was breathtaking. Both of the lakes just keep inviting us and the long walk towards the (lake) calling, endlessly continued for 4-5 hours till we reached the base camp in Nandkul!

Carcass of a mule 

We saw a mule carcass on the trek path. Nature gives us everything for our needs and finally at the opportune time integrates us with Her.  We all need to learn to be in harmony with nature's rhythm and tunes!!

Day 7: A new life , A New beginning 

Strength lies in differences and not in similarities - Stephen R Covey

A new born Lamb

The morning was star studded with the Golden hue appearing as a diadem in the mountains. The view was breath-taking. Strolling around we also saw a 'new life springing up - A sheep has just delivered'

Today was declared as a rest day and went to the stream nearby to bathe and we met a group of Kashmiri pandits. We were informed by them that Kashmir pandits perform annual Harmukh Gangbal yatra. After performing Puja at Naranag temple, devotees set on 36-km journey on foot to Gangabal lake, which is located around 14,500 feet above sea level in the Harmukh mountain range, Sacred puja would be performed on the banks of Gangbal lake on ashtami day following which the pilgrims go around (parikrama) Gangbal lake. The pandits invited us to join them. 

Joining the prayers with Kashmiri Pandits @ Gangbal

Shivling @ Gangbal lake

We joined in their poojas and were informed that we can go around the Gangbal lake as a parikrama. A group of us just started as an adventure. One discovery led to another, and at the center of the lake, we were at close proximity to the stream water melting from the Icy glaciers on top of Harmukh mountain and flowing into the Gangabal lake. Harmukh is also called as the "Kailash of Kashmir"

Harmukh - Kailash of Kashmir

Gangabal lake with Harmukh mountain in the backdrop

Crossing the mountainous stream of width 15 feet and depth of 2 ½ feet was even more adventurous as the water was ice cold and gushing down with tremendous force. (The shoes were removed, tied together with laces , hung on our shoulders, all loose items properly secured in backpacks etc) Within few minutes on stepping into the icy waters, our feet and legs became numb, the hard rocks in the frosty waters was very slippery and  we formed a human chain in the water and crossed over.  

We were blessed to be part of the parikrama and the circumambulation around the lake was a valiant exploration! 

A loving family who mesmerized us with their hospitality!

Our team with the Shepherd family

On the way , A shepherd family warmly invited us, provided tea (with goat milk) and shared their hot roti's with us. We bowed to their hospitality and thanked them for their warmth, kindness  and invite extended. 

Some of our team members also completely cleaned the Nandkul camp site and collected plastic garbage in 5 gunny sacks, that were left over by the previous trekkers. The garbage was handed over to the organizers, who would transport them to Naranag for proper disposal.

Definitely, each one of us need to take responsibility and leave the KGL, a better place to visit for the succeeding generations

Day 8: Tranquility

Eakm Sat vipra bahudha vadanti - The truth is one and the sages call it by different names - Upanishads   

After thanking our Guides, Support staff and Mule men, we left Nandkul basecamp to Naranag and further to Srinagar. The decent was very steep and rough. 

Our full team and bidding Adieu!

We shared lot of stories from Mahabharatha, Vikram and Bethal, philosophical thoughts with Ship of Theseus  deserving special mention on our descent. The guides did a wonderful job throughout the trek, in reigning us, as due to adrenalin rush one step of misplaced aggression or inadvertent error in these mountain ranges would have resulted in catastrophic consequences. Our well-being and safety was their primary motto!

A range of emotions and thoughts were running in each one of our minds, but the one lingering thought always was "When is our next Himalayan trek"? 

Needless to say, 'Nature is the portal to inner peace' and let all of us do our bit to protect Mother Earth.

The last of batch mates returning safely to Naranag

Credits and sincere thanks to:

• Indian armed forces 
• Karnataka Mountaineering Association [KMA] and Lead Mr Ajay J Shah
• Mountain Fit : Rahul, Riyaz and Guide team
• Cooking staff: 
• Mule Men
• My fellow friends and trek mates and their wonderful lens captures, and I had something to learn from each one of them !!

@ Gadsar Pass

Signing off and my crowning glory moment was waving our Indian tricolor @ Gadsar pass :-)