At the outset, I start with pranams to Sringeri Jagadguru Sannidhanams His Holiness Jagadguru Sankaracharya Sri Sri Sri Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamigal and Jagadguru Sankaracharya His holiness Sri Sri Sri Vidhu Shekhara Bharathi swamigal of Sringeri Saradha Peetham for everyone’s welfare & continued prosperity.
We embarked on a fascinating journey to explore Mother Nature with a the Kashmir Great Lakes [KGL] Trek.
Our Salutations to the Holy Mountains and the Resplendent Lakes
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| Nature's Diadem - View from Nandkul |
॥ madhu vātā ṛtāyate madhukṣaranti sindhavaḥ। mādhvīrnaḥ santvauṣadhīḥ॥ madhu naktamutoṣasi madhumatpārthivam̐ rajaḥ। madhudyaurastu na pitā॥ madhumānno vanaspatirmadhumām̐ astu sūryaḥ। mādhvīrgāvo bhavantu naḥ॥ - Rig Veda
Sweetly blow the winds. The streams scatter sweetness. May the herbs bring us sweetness. The nights and dawns fill us with sweetness. The dust of the earth is full of sweetness. May heaven itself, like a father, bring us sweetness. The ancient forest trees are full of sweetness. May the sun itself shower sweetness on us. May sweetness flow toward us from all directions. - Rig Veda
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| A bee collecting honey! Nature's Sweetness is for One and All!! |
Sharing some of our experiences in this blog epistle and I will start our storyline directly from the Trekking days!
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| Children welcoming us in Kashmir |
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| We all have dreams - It is our duty to enable the dreams of future generations! |
Day 1: The Beginning
Nature always wears the color of the Spirit : Ralph Waldo Emerson
On Day 1, post lunch we started our trek from Shitkadi (also sidgadi 2kms from Sonamarg) to the camp in Tabletop. The weather was inclement and it was just a matter of time, before the heavens were to open up!
In continuation of our tryst with the Himalayan mountain ranges, I whispered to Her, the majestic mountains, 'Do give us a clear weather, for we want to be charmed and enchanted by Your splendid opulence and open up your landscapes that are ostentatiously magnificent and extravagant'!
After passing through the army check post and registering ourselves, we continued our trek. As a blessing in disguise , this was also the last point where mobile signal was available and we were prepared for the next 8 days to be without the mobile dopamine! We were at an altitude of approximately 7500 - 8000 feet
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| Rapid changes in weather |
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| Rain Rain Go away :-) |
Indeed it rained and there was little respite. In the evening, it became very cold, combined with the continuous downpour, we trekked and reached the tabletop camp. Team members resolve was getting tested.....Will it rain further, will we be able to surmount the challenges?
Day 2: Sunshine
The mountains, the forest, and the sea, render men savage; they develop the fierce, but yet do not destroy the human.” - Victor Hugo
Our daily routine starts by 5:30 AM, a hot Kawha (Kashmiri chai) at 6:00 AM, 6:30 to 7:00 AM breakfast and 7:30 AM leave the camp site. The itinerary of the day was to trek from Table top camp to Nichnai camp which is at an altitude of 11500 feet.
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| Skyline from Tabletop camp |
The day dawned with a bright and beautiful skyline. It is always rumored that " 'Nichnai and Rain Romance were always ready for tango". The ascent was always on the cards and we followed the tree-line and surmounted a small pass, a couple of hours walk and reached Nichnai camp for lunch !! The trek team consisted of teenaged youngsters, members in the 40-50 age group and a senior citizen! It was lovely to have such a mix, with fun and banter with each passing step. The energy displayed by teenagers was infectious and we just wanted to be in their company!
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| Following the Tree top |
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| Ascent towards the Nichnai pass with the stream giving us company |
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| Our camp site |
Patience and Perseverance, if we have them will overcome mountain of difficulties - M K Gandhi
In deference to our wishes the intractable and recalcitrant Nature bride completely opened up her blue skies and thenceforth the weather promised to be picture perfect and not to play spoilsport. We continued our onward journey from Nichnai campsite to Vishnusar. The trek was relatively easy on Day 3 and we were building the needed endurance (or appeared to be !!).
The trek route until the Nichnai mountain pass located at an altitude of 13450 feet was steep and post that the rich meadows of 'Paradise on Earth' was strewn with rich abundant flora, definitely a beauty in the eyes of beholder!!
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| Mountainous stream and Vishnusar lake |
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| Abundant Rich flora - 'Paradise on Earth' |
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| Team @ Nichnai pass |
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| Our team on the way to Vishnusar |
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| Vishnusar lake |
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| Team on the banks of Vishnusar |
Definitely, the mountains are beckoning us with a new invite for embrace!. We heard the toughness of the ascent to Gadsar pass . Is it going to be a classic case of 'Spirit is willing but not the flesh' ?
Day 4: Challenge, Prayers and Blessings
We can achieve everything by being simple and humble - Rig Veda
Today [31st Aug'22] is also Vinayak (Lord Ganesha) Chatruthi. Some of the trek members showed their extraordinary skills by collecting clay sand in and around the Vishnusar lake and made a beautiful clay idol of Lord Ganesha. Women made garlands with the available cotton materials. Dry fruit prasad's were ready , a simple and small pooja was performed with Arathi for lord Ganesh. Vedic chanting was done and post the pooja Lord Ganesha was given a ceremonial send-off and immersed in the stream abutting Vishnusar lake.
The festive atmosphere was electrifying in the holy land of Sage Kashyap!
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| Ganesh Chattuthi Pooja by team |
With prayers submitted at the lotus feet of Lord Ganesha we started the trek on day 4. We bid adieu to Vishnusar lake and saw the majestic Kishansar lake.
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| Children performing Yoga & Photo-ops from Gadsar Pass |
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| Ascent to Gadsar pass - it has 2 very steep sections |
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| Ascension to Gadsar pass with team in the foreground |
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| Vishnusar and kishansar lakes from Gadsar pass |
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| Reminiscing Kailash Manasarover @ Gadsar Pass There is a Child in each one of us |
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| @ Gadsar lake |
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| The Purple Meadows |
We successfully completed the day 4 Gadsar pass trek and there is no turning back. Faith has indeed moved mountains and our prayers were accepted!
Day 5: Reflection
Wisdom comes from experience and experience comes from difficulties
In mountaineering treks, emphasis is laid on 2 simple and key aspects " Time Keeping and Discipline" and you miss them the mountains will be unforgiving! By now, we were used to the rhythm and rigorous schedule (albeit at a comfortable pace for everyone which was non-taxing) set by our guides, things were turning from hardship to Breeze for the team members
"when you 'enable a deliberate practice it becomes the habit and culture"
Day 5 was filled with banter and laughter. The guides cajoled us and said, with Gadsar pass surmounted, 90% of KGL is done, and one has to just enjoy the trek, the picturesque and pristine environs.
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| Satsar Lake III |
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| Lunch On the banks of Satsar lake |
We were in Satsar [Sat-Sar] a collection of 7 small alphine lakes. The trek was relatively easy for the day and our evening in the mess tent was spent with a multitude of games like Dobble, Uno, Emperor and Antaksari. The camp site in Satsar was nicely nestled in valley surrounded on all sides by small mountains and looked like we were in a fortress.
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| Satsar camp site |
Day 6: Trust and Random musings
What is a life time adventure for you, is a daily routine for us - Indian Army
I want to take a moment in this epistle and reflect on the supreme sacrifices of our armed forces in protecting the motherland. If we are able to see , appreciate many wonders and diversity of our Motherland, it is due to, round the clock vigil by our Indian armed forces. In many places we met soldiers from CRPF, Special Operations Group, BSF and J&K Police force. we greeted them and took photographs with them.
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| Our Brave Soldiers in Line of Duty |
Wanting to live versus Willingness to sacrifice their own lives in the call of duty for our mother land is a completely different ball game, as the soldier stands in front protecting the borders knowing that there are enemies out there trying to kill you. Lets not forget that they too have a family and children waiting for them to return home safe and sound. We salute our brave soldiers in the line of duty.
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| Trek on the boulders |
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| Crossing the Zach Pass |
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| From Zach Pass Nandkul on left & Gangabal on right |
The trek to Zach pass @ 13500 feet took about 3 hours or so and was on hard boulders which were 3-5 feet in height, the pace was slow and cautious. We were advised 'Just trust the boulders and keep moving' . Zach pass was cloudy and was threatening to rain, but She left us with just a warning. From Zach pass we can see the Nandkul and Gangabal lakes and the view was breathtaking. Both of the lakes just keep inviting us and the long walk towards the (lake) calling, endlessly continued for 4-5 hours till we reached the base camp in Nandkul!
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| Carcass of a mule |
We saw a mule carcass on the trek path. Nature gives us everything for our needs and finally at the opportune time integrates us with Her. We all need to learn to be in harmony with nature's rhythm and tunes!!
Day 7: A new life , A New beginning
Strength lies in differences and not in similarities - Stephen R Covey
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| A new born Lamb |
The morning was star studded with the Golden hue appearing as a diadem in the mountains. The view was breath-taking. Strolling around we also saw a 'new life springing up - A sheep has just delivered'
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| Joining the prayers with Kashmiri Pandits @ Gangbal |
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| Shivling @ Gangbal lake |
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| Harmukh - Kailash of Kashmir |
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| Gangabal lake with Harmukh mountain in the backdrop |
Crossing the mountainous stream of width 15 feet and depth of 2 ½ feet was even more adventurous as the water was ice cold and gushing down with tremendous force. (The shoes were removed, tied together with laces , hung on our shoulders, all loose items properly secured in backpacks etc) Within few minutes on stepping into the icy waters, our feet and legs became numb, the hard rocks in the frosty waters was very slippery and we formed a human chain in the water and crossed over.
We were blessed to be part of the parikrama and the circumambulation around the lake was a valiant exploration!
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| A loving family who mesmerized us with their hospitality! |
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| Our team with the Shepherd family |
On the way , A shepherd family warmly invited us, provided tea (with goat milk) and shared their hot roti's with us. We bowed to their hospitality and thanked them for their warmth, kindness and invite extended.
Some of our team members also completely cleaned the Nandkul camp site and collected plastic garbage in 5 gunny sacks, that were left over by the previous trekkers. The garbage was handed over to the organizers, who would transport them to Naranag for proper disposal.
Definitely, each one of us need to take responsibility and leave the KGL, a better place to visit for the succeeding generations
Day 8: Tranquility
Eakm Sat vipra bahudha vadanti - The truth is one and the sages call it by different names - Upanishads
After thanking our Guides, Support staff and Mule men, we left Nandkul basecamp to Naranag and further to Srinagar. The decent was very steep and rough.
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| Our full team and bidding Adieu! |
We shared lot of stories from Mahabharatha, Vikram and Bethal, philosophical thoughts with Ship of Theseus deserving special mention on our descent. The guides did a wonderful job throughout the trek, in reigning us, as due to adrenalin rush one step of misplaced aggression or inadvertent error in these mountain ranges would have resulted in catastrophic consequences. Our well-being and safety was their primary motto!
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A range of emotions and thoughts were running in each one of our minds, but the one lingering thought always was "When is our next Himalayan trek"?
Needless to say, 'Nature is the portal to inner peace' and let all of us do our bit to protect Mother Earth.
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| The last of batch mates returning safely to Naranag |
- Indian armed forces
- Karnataka Mountaineering Association [KMA] and Lead Mr Ajay J Shah
- Mountain Fit : Rahul, Riyaz and Guide team
- Cooking staff:
- Mule Men
- My fellow friends and trek mates and their wonderful lens captures, and I had something to learn from each one of them !!
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| @ Gadsar Pass |
Signing off and my crowning glory moment was waving our Indian tricolor @ Gadsar pass :-)
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