At the outset, I start with pranams to Sringeri Jagadguru Sannidhanams His Holiness Jagadguru Sankaracharya Sri Sri Sri Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamigal and Jagadguru Sankaracharya His holiness Sri Sri Sri Vidhu Shekhara Bharathi swamigal of Sringeri Saradha Peetham for everyone’s welfare & continued prosperity.
yā te rudra śivā tanūr aghorā'pāpakāśinī |
"O Rudra! Reveal to us Your serene and auspicious
form. O Dweller of the Mountains, look upon us with grace."
Standing amidst the timeless silence of the Markha Valley,
with the snow-clad face of Kang Yatse II slowly emerging through drifting
clouds, this prayer from the Śrī Rudram found a profound meaning. For a
fleeting moment, the mountains ceased to be summits waiting to be climbed; they
became a divine sanctuary where every ridge, every glacier and every gust of
icy wind whispered the presence of Lord Shiva.
Conquering a mountain is perhaps the greatest myth ever
told. We are merely blessed with the opportunity to stand in its sacred
presence.
Nature has always been my greatest teacher.
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| The Humble Bee has neither fear nor competition |
Among its countless lessons, one has remained with me through every expedition—the humble bee. The bee has neither fear nor competition. It never doubts its wings, nor worries who may take away its honey. It simply continues to fly, flower after flower, believing in Nature's abundance and in the quiet strength of its own wings.
Every mountain I have climbed has reaffirmed this timeless
truth. Summits are rarely earned by the strongest or the fastest; they belong
to those who quietly trust themselves, remain steadfast through uncertainty,
and keep moving forward with unwavering faith.
Little did I know that the Himalayas were about to test that belief more profoundly than ever before.
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| Shanthi Stupa - Leh |
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| Mahaparinirvana Buddha |
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| The journey begins |
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| River crossings - Swollen by relentless rains |
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| Ruins of Hankar fort |
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| Lush green of Markha Valley |
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| Guru Padmasambhava |
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| Om Mani Padme Hum |
When Nature Takes Charge......
By the time we reached Kang Yatse II Base Camp, the mountains had begun writing their own story.
Relentless rain battered our tents while fierce winds howled relentlessly through camp, threatening to deracinate not merely our shelters but also our carefully nurtured hopes of a summit. What had appeared to be a promising weather window now stood on the brink of complete omnishambles.
Every conversation inevitably returned to one simple question.
Would the mountain permit us to climb?
There comes a moment on every expedition when one experiences anagnorisis—the sudden realisation that we are insignificant before the forces of nature. Mountains neither negotiate nor compromise. They simply exist, utterly indifferent to our ambitions.
Several expedition teams waited together at Base Camp, staring aimlessly at the same indifferent sky. The clouds concealed far more than they revealed. The Stoicism reflected on every face spoke louder than words. We had trained. We had prepared. We had travelled thousands of kilometres.
Now everything belonged to the mountain. As we stood before those colossal walls of snow and stone, another thought quietly emerged.
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| Kany Yatse peak 1 and Kany Yatse Peak 2 |
Were the mountains asking us to become less eloquent and more silent? Perhaps some truths are simply too profound for language. Perhaps the Himalayas were teaching us that reverence is expressed not through words, but through silence. In that silence lay the quiet wisdom of Amor Fati—to love not merely the summit, but the uncertainty, the storm, the waiting, and the mountain exactly as it chose to reveal itself.
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| Team @ Kang Yatse II summit |
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| Our team @ Kang Yatse Base camp |
Safety Before Summit
Our Chief Guide, a seasoned Ladakhi mountaineer and among the finest professionals I have climbed with, shared a simple mantra that perfectly captures Himalayan mountaineering.
"Anyone can take you to the summit. You pay me for bringing you safely back to Base Camp."
Those words proved prophetic.
As the morning sun softened the snowpack, firm ice rapidly transformed into deep, unconsolidated snow. During our descent, I suddenly plunged nearly four feet into soft snow and became completely immobilised.
For nearly fifteen minutes, movement was impossible.
The instinct is always to rush towards someone in difficulty. Yet on a glacier, haste can be dangerous. Members of a rope team survive through discipline rather than impulse. Following calm, step-by-step instructions from our guide, I slowly extricated myself using my ice axe, carefully redistributing my weight until I was free. Had others rushed forward, the fragile snow bridge might easily have collapsed further.
Mountaineering has never been about taking risks. It is about managing them wisely.
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| Team @ Dzo Jongo base camp |
Forty-Four Hours and Thirty Minutes
Most climbers would have celebrated, but we packed.
The next day we were on our way to Dzo Jongo Base Camp,
preparing for another summit.
From standing atop Kang Yatse II to standing atop Dzo
Jongo East, only forty-four hours and thirty minutes would pass.
The number itself is not what makes the achievement memorable and what those forty-four and a half hours demanded were.
Endurance, Discipline, Patience, Humility.
Complete trust in the mountains—and in one another.
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| Team @ Dzo Jongo summit |
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| Dzo Jongo summit |
The approach to Dzo Jongo East is often underestimated. It deserves much greater respect. Its challenges are every bit as demanding as Kang Yatse II, particularly when attempted immediately after another 6,000-metre summit.
At 10:30 PM, we once again disappeared into the Himalayan darkness from Dzo Jongo basecamp. The wind had become colder. Every sinew had already been tested, stretched and asked for maximum accommodation.
Yet the mind remained quietly resolute. At 07:19 AM, the next day we stood atop Dzo Jongo East (6,220 metres).
Two summits - The twin Himalayan giants.
Summit to summit—Forty-Four Hours and Thirty Minutes.
Gratitude
A heartfelt thank you to the exceptional teams at Boots & Crampons and Trek Nomads, whose planning and execution were flawless from beginning to end. My sincere gratitude to our Trek Leader Skalzang Rigzin, whose unwavering commitment to safety inspired complete confidence throughout the expedition.
His philosophy remains one of the finest lessons I have learnt in the mountains: "Anyone can take you to the summit. You pay me for bringing you safely back to Base Camp."
My heartfelt thanks also to Romil Barthwal, whose encouragement and mental preparation gave me the confidence to attempt Dzo Jongo instead of stopping after Kang Yatse II.
Success in the mountains is never an individual achievement. It is always shared. Countless well wishers and family pray for your success and safe return!!
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| A proud moment |































