Saturday, April 18, 2015

Nainital - The city of lakes - A travelogue


Nainital 

At the outset, I start with pranams to Jagadguru Sankaracharya His Holiness Sri Sri Sri Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamigal, the ruling and 36th Pontiff and Jagadguru Sankaracharya  His Holiness Sri Sri Sri Vidhu Shekhara Bharathi Swamigal the 37th  Pontiff of Sri Sringeri Saradha Peetham for everyone’s welfare and continued prosperity.

A mountainous stream originating in the upper reaches of Himalayas

View as seen from Dorthy Point


Himalayan Mountain Ranges in Nainital
Earth and sky, woods and fields, Lakes and River, the mountain and Sea, are excellent masters and teach us more than we can ever learn from books

-John Lubbock

We visited Uttrakhand for a vacation covering Nainital, Binsar ( Almora district), Corbett National park, in Kumaon region and Haridwar and Rishikesh in Garhwal region. Nature’s splendor which has bestowed mankind with bountiful scenic beauty in these regions are to be cherished and admired for a life-time. The images of Nature keep coming back over again and again. The Lakes, Snow capped mountains, the woods, Mother Ganges create a magic charm and keeps me spell bound. Over my next 4-5 blog pages, I want to pen down my experiential journey to these parts of northern India.

Our 1st port of call was  Nainital – referred as ‘Lake District’ as the district boasts of many lakes. The British made Nainital as the summer capital of United Province (present day Uttar Pradesh). It is said, the city boasted around 60 lakes in the past and was referred as “Chakta”.

Nainital is referred in ‘Skanda Purana’ as the Tri-Rishi Sarovar with reference to the patron saints Atri, Pulastya and Pulaha who in order to quench their thirst during their penitential pilgrimage dug a hole and brought water from the scared lake Mansarovar

Naini Lake

Painting of Naini lake - sometime beginning of 19th Century
The centre of attraction is the ‘Naini lake’ which is nestled around  mountain ranges. A comparison of the lake picture in the late part of 18th century to the current state one can observe that it is preserved intact without many encroachments. The various feeders of water channel into the lake and its organization leaves a charming feeling. The temple of Goddess Naini devi is on the northern banks to which the origins of the lake can be traced
Horse ride from Horse point to Dorthy point
From ‘Horse point’ we took a tour of the mountain ridges ( Dorthy seat, and other peak points). This horse ride is a challenging and life changing experience. The stone pathway is a steep hilly rocky terrain and is very narrow with steep slopes on the sides. The way the keepers love and tender their horses are amazing. The horse-keeper gives simple instructions on the control of the horses and it is imperative to pay attention and follow the instructions to the letter and spirit. ( We understood this experience can no way compared to the horse-rides which we do in the plains). With the reigns draped over in one hand and clutching the saddle on the other hand, we were looking like colloid actors ready for action. It just takes few steps on the rocky terrain to realize what lay in store for us on this challenge

Sundar and Family
The horses typically chose the path of least resistance and have a tendency to stroll around the edges of the percipience. Using the commands, we need to bring the horse back to the centre of the pathway. The ride down-hill is more challenging than up-hill. One needs to maintain a correct body position in up-hill and down-hill to prevent the human body weight from sliding and falling over the road. All of us after overcoming the initial fear ( At least the elders pretended that they overcame the fear and the children did a great job) the maneuvering was smooth.

View of Himalayan peaks
Closer view of 'Trishul Parvat' and 'Nanda Devi' peaks

Both in the steep up-hill and down-hill course the horses show their dis-pleasure on being stopped (by pulling the reigns) due the weight and loss of momentum and make some moves to ensure that you release the reigns. The weather was clear and we saw some breath taking views of Himalayan snow-clad peaks namely Trishul, Nanda Gunti, Nanda devi. The journey lasted for 1 hr: 45 mins. We re-called the horse ride for the rest of our tour every now and then.


Bengal Tiger
A Male 'Sambar Deer in High altitude zoo

Himalayan Bear - recognized by the white 'V' neck


We spent the rest of day visiting many places of interest namely Cave gardens, Upper lake view, Lovers view point. The Rope way connecting the flat lands to the snow view point is a major attraction. We travelled by Ropeway and had lunch @ snow view point. 

Sattal Lake
Bheem Tal lake
A lovely duckling - New entrant to the Bheem Tal lake perimeter
In Day 2 we visited Sattal, BheemTal , Naukuchi tal. The High Altitude Zoo has many birds and animals in healthy condition. Bengal tiger and Himalayan bears were major attractions in the zoo.

The tour operator suggested that we visit Hanuman Kadi ( temple) in Nainital. I thought, we will quickly wrap up our exiting and exhausting day with a visit to the temple by spending 5-10 mins. The temple has been built by Neem Karoli Baba Maharaj, who had his initial roots in UP, then wandered to places in Gujarat and Himalayan regions in search of spiritual enlightenment. The sprawling temple complex consists separate temples for Hanuman, Shiva and Rama. The temple complex and surroundings are maintained spic and span by the volunteers. We joined the bhajans in the temple and spent around 90 mins there. I definitely felt positive vibrations and connected back to the temples in my native village Sattanatahapuram and Surabharathi foundation in Bangalore and the associated spiritual activities.

‘What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us; what we have done for others and the world remains and is immortal’

Our Sacred land Bharath has definitely been enriched by the selfless service and sacrifice of numerous sages and gurus down the centuries and here was one more shining gem in Neem Karoli baba. We thanked the taxi operator for his kind suggestion as without him this pleasant spiritual experience wouldn’t have been added to our memory.



City Centre

In the town center a cricket match was on between 2 club teams and we stood by to have a glimpse of the action. The spin bowler bowled to full-tosses (which took ages to the reach the batsman) and got two wickets in the firts two balls of his over. We were flabbergasted with the action and results. I reminisced on my cricket playing days, wherein full-tosses bowled by me were deposited by batsman either in deep mid-wicket or wide long-on. To rub salt on the wound the boundary fielders will have the choicest expletives and the captain will walk to me to have an invective word.

To an great extent the city is very disciplined. There are even queues for rickshaws and people and the rickshaw walla’s diligently follow them . Special mention needs to be allocated to the people here who are helpful and co-operative and always welcome you with a friendly countenance. Most importantly we did not see people begging for Alms in any of the tourist spots

Last but not the least, we stayed in Naini Retreat belonging to the erstwhile Maharaja of Pilibhit. We were treated as royals with every aspect taken care off. Thanks to my colleague Dev Prasad who did a stupendous job in planning and taking care of every minute details of the tour itinerary. Both the families enjoyed to the core the start and the entire leg of the tour.




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